I don’t know about you, but the minute October comes around, my social media feed is replete with images of pumpkin-spiced lattes and golden vistas of autumnal scenes. It’s the start of ‘sweater weather’ and the chance to sew some cosy pieces for the cooler months ahead. I think most people who make their clothes would say autumn is one of their favourite seasons to sew for; we’re gently peeling ourselves away from the bright summer fabrics and peppering our wardrobes with more of those earthy colours that many of us love so much. 

Why I chose the Paper Theory Agnes PJs Pattern

Before diving into pattern options, I reined in my enthusiasm and took stock of the items that had been stored away since earlier this year so I could get a better idea of what I actually needed (the not-so-fun but necessary part). In short supply were PJs. I’m talking about the classic long-sleeved, collared top with matching elasticated trousers, ideally made in a soft, cosy fabric. 

For this sewing project, I reached for the trusty Paper Theory Agnes PJs pattern. It features the classic PJ top and trousers, deviating slightly from the typical shape with its modern oversized bodice and grown-on sleeves. It also includes the option of making trousers or shorts.

I’ve made a few versions of this pattern already, and I think I need to reprint some of the PDF pattern pieces due to them being packed and unpacked somewhat haphazardly. Is anyone else terrible at storing PDF patterns?! 

It’s great for confident beginners in terms of skill level. However, there are a few trickier techniques, such as buttonholes and collar construction.

What I love about this pattern is the option to create French seams, which give a lovely, neat finish on the inside of the garment and feel a little more robust than an overlocked seam. 

Pattern sizing

I sewed a size medium with no modifications save for adding a couple of inches to the leg length. If fabric allowance had permitted it, I would have extended the sleeve length, too. 

When you’re laying out your pattern pieces for both the bodice and trousers, you need quite a wide piece of fabric, so it’s worth being a little generous when ordering your material to ensure you have enough. 

Fabric options

The pattern works well with most woven fabrics. I used this cotton poplin from Fabric Godmother, which I was sent as part of their Dream Wardrobe subscription last year. It has a bit of elastane, adding extra comfort and flexibility when sewing. 

I couldn’t quite stretch the fabric to accommodate the width of all the pattern pieces. Hence, you’ll notice the selvedge is a sort of button placket, but it still kind of works.

Pattern construction

Going through the instructions, I found that constructing the garments is pretty straightforward. The only part I always seem to get slightly confused with is sewing the facing on the bodice so it slips easily under the back neck/inside the collar. As mentioned at the top of the post, I think this lack of neatness may be due to the state of my PDF pieces, and I need to reprint them. 

I deviated slightly from the design when I constructed the elasticised waistband. I didn’t have quite enough elastic for the entire length of the waist, so instead, I gathered about three-quarters of the waistband and tried on the trousers until I was happy with the fit. I also added buttonholes to loop through some ribbon to create a bow on the front.

Once you’ve made the top, the trousers come together really quickly.

Adapting the pattern

Now that I’m pretty familiar with the pattern, I’d love to adapt it to make a jacket. I really like the Atelier Brunette La Veste pattern, and with a few tweaks, I could create something similar. I’ve also seen people adapt the pattern to make a dress.

There are so many things I want to make for this season, so I have to think about what I actually need as opposed to the ‘would be nice to have’ pieces, and a jacket is definitely on the list.

Have you made any new pieces for autumn?

Lorna x