This week, I had two separate shopping bags waiting patiently online. The first contained a tank top and leggings from a sustainable clothing company, and in the other, two metres of organic bamboo jersey fabric, which I’d use to make my own version of a tank top and leggings. Both baskets amounted to the same price.

Deciding between buying ready-to-wear pieces and sewing my own version has become a common conundrum in my endeavour to build a more eco-friendly wardrobe. Much like organic foods, paying for fabric that is less environmentally taxing often means spending a little bit more, so I want to be able to make clothes well so they’ll last a long time.  

Google whether it’s cheaper to make or buy your clothes, and often, the results will tell you it’s more economical to make your garments, but I think there are some things to consider first. Here are the questions I ask myself.

Why do I want to make this?

It’s always worth asking yourself why you want to make a garment. Is it more for necessity or you simply love the garment? I’d always recommend the latter be your overarching reason. I remember there was a time when I was determined to replace any wardrobe gaps with handmade pieces, but this took the joy out of sewing for me – making a basic tee wasn’t half as fun as sewing a colourful dress.

Perhaps you’ve seen a designer piece that you’d love to put your own spin on, or you live in jeans, but ready-to-wear versions never seem to fit right so you want to try making your own. Whatever the reason, if you feel excited about a sewing project as much as you do wearing the garment, that’s usually a good indicator that it’s worth investing your time and money in.

Can I make this garment well?

As a self-taught sewist, while I strive to achieve a great fit and, ultimately, a wearable garment, my clothes often lack the same level of robustness that is found in shop-bought items.

Let’s return to the tank top and leggings in the aforementioned baskets. I wanted to make gym wear because workout gear is often made from synthetic fabric, and I try to wear natural fabrics as much as possible. However, I’d never sewn workout gear before, so parting with the money for fabric I wasn’t 100% sure would turn out how I’d planned made me reconsider.

This doesn’t mean I shouldn’t make them, but perhaps a few practice runs with fabric from my stash here is the more economical way to go. I also try to look for sewalongs or reviews for the pattern I’ve chosen, as this can help to explain any of the tricker techniques you may be less familiar with.

The more you practice sewing a variety of garments in different fabrics, the more you’ll build your skills.

Will I enjoy sewing this garment?

Do you enjoy the sewing process as much as wearing your handmade garments? Some projects, like coats and jeans, will naturally demand a little more time and dedication, so it’s worth considering whether you really want to invest that sewing time or if buying a shop-bought version is the best way to go. The more you make, the clearer it will be what you enjoy making and, therefore, those items you prefer to sew and buy.

Jeans-making and I have had a turbulent relationship over the years. Of all the garments I wear, jeans are the ones I reach for pretty much daily, and they’re also the one handmade garment I want to get right. So, while I’m yet to sew a pair of well-fitting jeans, I still love the process of making them and trouser-making in general has become a little easier the more I make.

Can I afford to make or buy this garment right now?

Have you ever seen a new pattern release and wanted to buy it straight away? The cost of sewing supplies for a single garment can quickly mount up, particularly if you’re sourcing sewing supplies from different places.

To avoid impulse buying, I save everything to a wish list first and revisit this at the beginning of every season as this helps clarify the sewing supplies or ready-to-wear garments I want and how much I need to save for them. Plus, a sewing shop or store might run an offer and at which point you’ll already have an idea of the items you want.

You can create your own wish list on many online sewing shops, and Pinterest works well for ready-to-wear pieces, too.

While I love the idea of only wearing natural organic fabrics, there has to be a balance. For example, if I’ve had my eye on a non-natural fabric for a while that I love and know will get lots of wear, that’s still a sustainable option. The same goes for ready-to-wear pieces, too. Buy the best you can afford, consider the rest of the questions above, and even if you have to save up to purchase sewing items or ready-to-wear pieces, you’ll appreciate them so much more.

Curating your ideal clothing collection takes time

Curating a wardrobe you love is a lot about trial and error, and patience. I’ve experimented a lot with building a sustainable clothing collection, but sometimes at the expense of my own joy in what I make, buy and wear. I’ve held on to clothes I’d emotionally outgrown just because they were functional, I’ve experimented with sewing only basic, monochrome pieces for ease of dressing but felt uninspired and desperately sought colour, and I’ve tried to use up fabric and patterns I already own even though they didn’t always align with my personal style. When it comes to any clothing collection, bought or handmade, we have to consider what works best for us and our own lifestyles.

Do you have any tips for deciding whether to buy and sew your clothes?